What method would y'all use to capture 8mm kodachrome movie film?

I've converted it by projecting it to a piece of white poster board with the
image about 12" to 18" wide in a dimly lit room. I placed my VX2000 to shoot
right over the projector. Leaned my "screen" back and forth until the image
was square in the video viewfinder. Made sure both projector and camera were
in focus (projector 1st) with manual focus. Fiddled with the shutter speed
on the camera to eliminate flickering. Put aperture on auto although some
recommend manual. Worked great for me.

--
Ed

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"Ivan" wrote in message
...
What method would y'all use to capture 8mm kodachrome movie film?

"Ed" wrote in message
...
"Ivan" wrote in message
...
What method would y'all use to capture 8mm kodachrome movie film?

I've converted it by projecting it to a piece of white poster board with
the
image about 12" to 18" wide in a dimly lit room. I placed my VX2000 to
shoot
right over the projector. Leaned my "screen" back and forth until the
image
was square in the video viewfinder. Made sure both projector and camera
were
in focus (projector 1st) with manual focus. Fiddled with the shutter speed
on the camera to eliminate flickering. Put aperture on auto although some
recommend manual. Worked great for me.


Yes, you have highlighted the most important aspect of transferring 8mm film
to video, the fps speed of the film and the fps speed of the video camera -
at 'normal' fps of both mediums 8mm film has a far to slow fps speed and
thus will cause 'frame flickering' once on video. If any of the above make
sense !...

It is not easy to make a decent transfer using domestic gear, but with
perseverance and experimentation it is possible.

Ivan wrote:
What method would y'all use to capture 8mm kodachrome movie film?

There used to be little boxes sold as video transfer kits. I built my
own. You need a good first-surface mirror and a piece of ground glass.
Both are available through photographic supply houses or astronomy
gear supply houses. Arrange the mirror so the film projector's image
strikes it at a 45 degree angle. Place the ground glass at the same
angle where the image exits the mirror. Distance between mirror and
either component affects image size. Finally, place the video camera so
it views the image on the ground glass. By adjusting distance between
glass and video camera, you produce an image that fills the screen.

The advantages of this system are two-fold. The first is the "density"
of the image. by placing the components fairly close together, you
don't spread out the film image so it stays sharp and dense. By tape it
"up close" the same effect is accomplished. The second advantage is
brightness of the image. Since your video is "looking at" the film
projector, there is no loss of brightness due to reflection. (Yes, some
is lost in the mirror and the glass, but much less unless you use a
highly reflective surface; not a piece of white paper).

Finally, The reason for the mirror is to reverse the image so it comes
out correct on the video. Without it, you would have a mirror image of
your tape.

Good Luck!

Fully agree with DCM but instead of the ground glass I use two pieces of
clear glass (first quality glass!) "glue" together with a very thin layer of
white wax. It's much better than ground glass which gives a "grainy" look to
the video.
Try it you will be amazed by the quality of your videos
"DCM" a écrit dans le message de news:
...
Ivan wrote:
What method would y'all use to capture 8mm kodachrome movie film?

There used to be little boxes sold as video transfer kits. I built my
own. You need a good first-surface mirror and a piece of ground glass.
Both are available through photographic supply houses or astronomy
gear supply houses. Arrange the mirror so the film projector's image
strikes it at a 45 degree angle. Place the ground glass at the same
angle where the image exits the mirror. Distance between mirror and
either component affects image size. Finally, place the video camera so
it views the image on the ground glass. By adjusting distance between
glass and video camera, you produce an image that fills the screen.

The advantages of this system are two-fold. The first is the "density"
of the image. by placing the components fairly close together, you
don't spread out the film image so it stays sharp and dense. By tape it
"up close" the same effect is accomplished. The second advantage is
brightness of the image. Since your video is "looking at" the film
projector, there is no loss of brightness due to reflection. (Yes, some
is lost in the mirror and the glass, but much less unless you use a
highly reflective surface; not a piece of white paper).

Finally, The reason for the mirror is to reverse the image so it comes
out correct on the video. Without it, you would have a mirror image of
your tape.

Good Luck!